Thursday, January 30, 2014

Namaste India

Kash and her dog Boo

Krushna at Dance Rehearsal with two child contestants

Practising in front of the mirror

Sweet Crispy Spinach with Garlic

Crab in the Shell

Gobi Manchurian! (my favorite)


Krushna with delightful sister:  Aarti Singh

Rice, Noodles

Dessert, Crispy Noodles with Honey
Manouj, our Butler Packing our Clothes 
Lots of folding!

God, I will be afraid to eat, for fear of spilling something on me

It was our final day in Mumbai and it is Maximum City. Where ever we go it is teaming with people, hustling to make a movie, hustling to make a buck, hustling to get ahead. The Taj for us, is the symbolic center of Mumbai, and I am sure that is why the terrorists attacked it. The Staff is unbending to the pressure to make everything perfect. They all know our name and greet us, they have a commitment and service level that goes beyond anything we have ever experienced anywhere. Our wonderful butler, Manouj, said no need to check out he would do it all for us in our room, (just as we had checked in the room).

We spent the morning making a few more purchases for the wedding (date not set yet) and simply had to await the arrival of my bespoke suits I had ordered from Burlington, located on the ground level of the Taj. They will make you any suit or sari overnight, you then return for a fitting, where adjustments are noted, and the next day the perfectly tailored items are ready to be shipped home. They promised the clothes at 2:20pm, so we had a few hours to kill.

We had purchased lots of clothes, books, etc. over our stay in Mumbai. Manouj our Butler, offered to pack everything for us. We did nothing but watch and observe his technique. He refolded many garments that we had sloppily folded and when he was finished all of the items were perfectly placed in the locked suitcases ready for their return to the America. I only wish we could have put Manouj in a suitcase and brought him back. Butler service has a lot going for it!

We left the Taj about 3:15pm and proceeded up north to Kashmera’s and Krushna’s Apartment. Our driver started out in a bit of a huff, because he wanted to take us to the airport directly, late at Midnight. I am sure it was all about the tip he would receive. More hours, more tip. It finally got straightened out and he did as we wished. Normally to drive to North Mumbai, people take a Marine Drive along the Arabian Sea and then take the Worli Sealink which is like a long bridge  over part of the Arabian Sea shortening the drive time substantially. Our drivers language skills were poor, but he communicated to us the costal route was too crowded. He took a parallel interior route. It took longer (more time – bigger tip perhaps), and avoided the coast to save him the fees for the taking Worli Sealink. Maybe he thought this was the better way. We will never know. However, it was an interesting route thru many neighborhoods, we have never seen before. There are lots of flyovers on this road. Flyovers are common in Mumbai, I can’t think of any in Los Angeles. Basically, as you drive down a road, you approach what to us looks like a freeway ramp directly in front of you. You drive up the ramp and are then driving on elevated roadway, no cross traffic, fewer cows, no one attempting to park. The flyover goes for a few hundred yards then descends and exits back onto the original crowded road. You are back to crazy traffic, then maybe a few hundreds yards further, another flyover appears. It is like a disconnected freeway. Why they just don’t connect all the flyovers is beside me. It would speed up traffic immensely.

We arrived at Kashmera’s complex and offloaded our luggage from our driver, I adequately tipped him and all was forgiven. Ganesh is Kashmera’s Driver. He is excellent, he helped us schlep the luggage up to her Kash’s apartment. Her housekeeper, Suresh, a young man, was busing making tea, cleaning things up and generally making the house work. He is very quiet and never said a word as he silently brought out dresses to show Cathy and then placed them away. 2 carpenters were working in another room creating beautiful locked closets for Kash’s outfits and jewelry. A dress designer who has designed outfits for Kash for 10 years was also there. She has great spirit and was quite funny. She took Cathy and my measurements. We don’t know why, but I assume more wedding clothes will appear. Hopefully the wedding will happen while I am still this size. If worse comes to worse Cathy and I could open the first Indian Wedding Shop in Silverlake with all of the clothing we have purchased for this unscheduled extravaganza.

Cathy, Kash and I piled into Ksh’s Audio Q7, it is a very posh SUV-like vehicle, they also have a new Mercedes among 5 cars. Ganesh, Kash’s driver, took us over to a rehearsal hall where Krushna was working on a dance routine with two young children. This is a dance completion for youth. Krushna is a HUGE TV star and the show will be hit. I had never observed a dance rehearsal before, the choreographer, dances to the left and rear, of the dancers. If they forget the steps the need only look in the mirror and mimic the choreographer. I was amazed to find out they had only an hour before been shown the steps by the chorographer. They practiced a little more, tomorrow rehearsal and filming we hope they win. It is a very fast process. We will see how it works for Cathy and I when we need to learn to dance for the wedding.

On the way back from the rehearsal hall we stopped to buy some wine and Gin. They debated if Krushna should actually get out of the car for he would be mobbed. I went with him, people spoke to him and he gave away his mobile number to someone. I guess I was the designated bodyguard. I performed my task admirably, or at least successfully enough we weren’t mobbed. Krushna driver, Shiva, drove Krushna’s car back to the apartment, while Ganesha drove us all back to the apartment for a bottle of wine and a Gin and tonic and then we all left about 9pm for dinner. Surprisingly to me, Krushna who was exhausted by this time had chosen to go to a nearby Chinese Restaurant: China 1. On the way we picked up Krushna’s sister Aarti Singh, who is a also an actress. She is very charming with no attitude, just like Krushna and Kash. She has a very warm relationship with her big brother; it was heartwarming to see the two of them together.

We have never been to a Chinese Restaurant in India, I also expected the worse, but Krushna insists that Chinese food India is better than in China, because the add Indian Spices. It was amazingly good. However, the spicy dishes can by seriously spicy. They knew we were spice wooses and ordered some milder dishes. This is a place we will go back to when we return for wedding. They served great food; we had a dish I have never before experienced, Crispy Spinach which was excellent. Chopped up Spinach fried to a crisp with garlic and slightly sweetened: it was great!  We had many more dishes including my favorite Gobi Manchurian,  a Crab Dish in the shell, Dim Sum and a Honey Noodle dessert, noodles, rice, shrimp, fish, etc. Plus they serve wine. Krushna, a man after my own heart, ordered way too much. It was a bountiful dinner. Tim, this place is for you.

We returned to the apartment and said our sad goodbyes. In only 2 weeks Kash and Krushna will be coming to the States to stay with us for 10 days. We are really looking forward to returning the hospitality they have shown us. The adventure will then continue.

Ganesh drove us to the airport. We weren’t looking forward to the chaos of the Mumbai Airport, the International Terminal that we hoped to use won’t open till next month. The new Mumbai International Terminal hovers over the airport, like a giant space ship. It will be amazing when opened. We had some trepidation about going to the Airport, we had lots of luggage and it can be quite chaotic. When Ganesh pulled up to the departure gate, someone asked if we flying on Virgin Atlantic and then asked if we were Upper Class. As soon as they found out, the waters parted for us. We were whisked through emigration and security in special lines avoiding the masses. We went to the lounge and awaited the call for our 3am flight. As soon as I got on board I asked for glass of Champagne, and drank it with a sleeping pill. They made up my bed, I changed into the pajamas they offered me and 8 hours later I awoke 1-½ hours from London. Once we arrived at Heathrow, and were cleared to the Virgin Atlantic Club Upper Class Club House, we planned maximum use of our layover. Long Massages, Showers, Cathy getting her hair blow-dried, facials. Serious Pampering. Plus they have great food and wine. Needless to stay they have wifi, so I can publish the blog. This is another place we could move into!

The Indian Vacation was fantastic. We have much to reflect on, many books to read that we purchased because of Jaipur Literary Festival, a Fabulous wedding demanding our return to India and dance steps to learn. India is having a national election and we feel connected to it. It will be fun to watch the politics unfold. The next few months will be fantastic!



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